Post by Admin - Angi on Apr 13, 2007 15:23:48 GMT
Red eyed tree frog care guidelines
Natural habitat, appearance and temperament.
These highly desirable arboreal frogs are native to the rainforests of central America. They can be found in lowland forests and the surrounding countryside
in Mexico, Panama and Costa Rica. Usually they are spotted on the underside of sturdy leaves on trees.
These frogs are bright lime green in colour with cream or white bellies. They have red to burgundy coloured eyes, depending on locality morphs, which are supposed to aid their vision with them being nocturnal. Apparently one of the most sought after localities the Nicaraguan. They have blue to purple stripes on their sides, alternating with yellow. Bright orange to yellow feet completes their attractive look.
Adult females are generally larger measuring from 2.5 - 3 inches, whilst males reach 2 – 2.5 inches.
Mature male frogs will call and sound like a rattle rather than a frog.
These frogs do better within a community.
Captive enviroment
Vivarium size and material
Enclosures compromising of both glass and screen are best suited to these frogs as they require high humidity and good ventilation. Make sure the enclosure is secure to avoid escape. Many keepers cover one long side with aquarium backing paper or cork bark, which may help reduce the frogs stress by providing a darkened area.
The minimum dimensions suggested for a pair of adults is 24 inches wide by 12 depth and 16 inches high, but more space is better.
Substrates and cage decor
Coconut husk fibre makes a good substrate for these frogs, with areas of moist moss, these substrates help retain high humidity levels.
Moss and coco husk fibre need hydrating with conditioned water ( moss needs rinsing in this daily), see feeding and water below. Avoid small pieces of bark or gravel as these may be harmful if ingested by the frogs.
Live plants with large sturdy leaves will make excellent hides and perches. Suggested species are Philodendron, Anthurium and Mongtera. If using live plants then don’t forget to provide full spectrum lighting for them.
More extravagent naturalistic vivariums can be constructed, including running water falls, air conditioning etc, there is a wealth of information available to aid you prepare this type of environment – some suggested reading is provided to help.
Temperature and Humidity.
Red eyed tree frogs do well in temperatures mimicking their natural habitat, ranging from 60 – 85F ( 15 – 30 C).
Suggested daytime temperatures are 75 – 80F ( 24 – 27C) and nightime temps 70 – 75F ( 21 – 24C).
Air conditioning and fans may be required to keep temperatures from soaring too high in the summer, whilst in the winter months heating from heat mats ( attatched to thermostats) may be required to maintain correct temperatures.
Desirable humidity is 70 – 100%
Lighting
There is no evidence to suggest that they require UV lighting and many lighting forms will dry their environment reducing humidity. It is suggested that you keep yourself up dated on this topic regularly as there is ongoing research.
An infra red light may be used for night time viewing.
Feeding and water
Chlorine, Chloramine in tap water can be harmful to your frogs, so please treat all water used with a conditioner which removes these. Enclosure will need to be misted anything from twice weekly to three times daily depending on your set up, to maintain the required humidity. Provide your frogs with a shallow water bowl with a branch to aid it in climbing out. Your frog will sit in the water to hydrate itself but will also drink from droplets of water left on leaves etc following mistings. Change the water daily or more frequently if defacated in.
Your frog will eat soft bodied invertebrates such as flies, moths, crickets, wax worms, mealworms and silkworms. Provide the latter 3 in a feeding bowl to prevent them escaping and burrowing into the substrate. Feed your frog on a daily basis and try to alternate their diet. The invertebrates will need gutloading with an appropriate nutritious diet, so that your frog stays healthy. Also they must be dusted with extra calcium, vitamin D3 and multivitamins about twice weekly.( Please see our gutloading and dusting guidelines on a separate sheet.)
General care and maintenance points
Spot clean your enclosure every day and disinfect your vivarium once in a while using a commercially available product available in reptile shops or a 5% bleach soloution – ensure the enclosure is thoroughly rinsed afterwards as cleansing products may be harmful to your frog.
Take care to wash your hands following handling, feeding or cleansing as reptiles and amphibians do rarely carry diseases which can be passed on to humans ( zoonoses) such as salmonella, good hygiene is all that is required to prevent this.
If you need to handle your frog then do so very gently with wet hands only and please ensure you do not have alcohol, perfumes, aftershave or detergents on your hands as these can be harmful to your frog.
Suggested further reading
de Vosjoli, Phillippe, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready. Care and Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs. Santee, CA: Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1996
talkto.thefrog.org/
www.amphibiaweb.org/
Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of these care sheets, we acknowledge that differences of opinion do exist within the reptile world. Therefore we do encourage you do read around this topic further and discuss it with known keepers and breeders.
If you feel that we have made any errors, please feel free to contact any member of the team and we will endeavour to research the subject at hand further.
written by Angi Nelson
Photos by Angi Nelson
Natural habitat, appearance and temperament.
These highly desirable arboreal frogs are native to the rainforests of central America. They can be found in lowland forests and the surrounding countryside
in Mexico, Panama and Costa Rica. Usually they are spotted on the underside of sturdy leaves on trees.
These frogs are bright lime green in colour with cream or white bellies. They have red to burgundy coloured eyes, depending on locality morphs, which are supposed to aid their vision with them being nocturnal. Apparently one of the most sought after localities the Nicaraguan. They have blue to purple stripes on their sides, alternating with yellow. Bright orange to yellow feet completes their attractive look.
Adult females are generally larger measuring from 2.5 - 3 inches, whilst males reach 2 – 2.5 inches.
Mature male frogs will call and sound like a rattle rather than a frog.
These frogs do better within a community.
Captive enviroment
Vivarium size and material
Enclosures compromising of both glass and screen are best suited to these frogs as they require high humidity and good ventilation. Make sure the enclosure is secure to avoid escape. Many keepers cover one long side with aquarium backing paper or cork bark, which may help reduce the frogs stress by providing a darkened area.
The minimum dimensions suggested for a pair of adults is 24 inches wide by 12 depth and 16 inches high, but more space is better.
Substrates and cage decor
Coconut husk fibre makes a good substrate for these frogs, with areas of moist moss, these substrates help retain high humidity levels.
Moss and coco husk fibre need hydrating with conditioned water ( moss needs rinsing in this daily), see feeding and water below. Avoid small pieces of bark or gravel as these may be harmful if ingested by the frogs.
Live plants with large sturdy leaves will make excellent hides and perches. Suggested species are Philodendron, Anthurium and Mongtera. If using live plants then don’t forget to provide full spectrum lighting for them.
More extravagent naturalistic vivariums can be constructed, including running water falls, air conditioning etc, there is a wealth of information available to aid you prepare this type of environment – some suggested reading is provided to help.
Temperature and Humidity.
Red eyed tree frogs do well in temperatures mimicking their natural habitat, ranging from 60 – 85F ( 15 – 30 C).
Suggested daytime temperatures are 75 – 80F ( 24 – 27C) and nightime temps 70 – 75F ( 21 – 24C).
Air conditioning and fans may be required to keep temperatures from soaring too high in the summer, whilst in the winter months heating from heat mats ( attatched to thermostats) may be required to maintain correct temperatures.
Desirable humidity is 70 – 100%
Lighting
There is no evidence to suggest that they require UV lighting and many lighting forms will dry their environment reducing humidity. It is suggested that you keep yourself up dated on this topic regularly as there is ongoing research.
An infra red light may be used for night time viewing.
Feeding and water
Chlorine, Chloramine in tap water can be harmful to your frogs, so please treat all water used with a conditioner which removes these. Enclosure will need to be misted anything from twice weekly to three times daily depending on your set up, to maintain the required humidity. Provide your frogs with a shallow water bowl with a branch to aid it in climbing out. Your frog will sit in the water to hydrate itself but will also drink from droplets of water left on leaves etc following mistings. Change the water daily or more frequently if defacated in.
Your frog will eat soft bodied invertebrates such as flies, moths, crickets, wax worms, mealworms and silkworms. Provide the latter 3 in a feeding bowl to prevent them escaping and burrowing into the substrate. Feed your frog on a daily basis and try to alternate their diet. The invertebrates will need gutloading with an appropriate nutritious diet, so that your frog stays healthy. Also they must be dusted with extra calcium, vitamin D3 and multivitamins about twice weekly.( Please see our gutloading and dusting guidelines on a separate sheet.)
General care and maintenance points
Spot clean your enclosure every day and disinfect your vivarium once in a while using a commercially available product available in reptile shops or a 5% bleach soloution – ensure the enclosure is thoroughly rinsed afterwards as cleansing products may be harmful to your frog.
Take care to wash your hands following handling, feeding or cleansing as reptiles and amphibians do rarely carry diseases which can be passed on to humans ( zoonoses) such as salmonella, good hygiene is all that is required to prevent this.
If you need to handle your frog then do so very gently with wet hands only and please ensure you do not have alcohol, perfumes, aftershave or detergents on your hands as these can be harmful to your frog.
Suggested further reading
de Vosjoli, Phillippe, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready. Care and Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs. Santee, CA: Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1996
talkto.thefrog.org/
www.amphibiaweb.org/
Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of these care sheets, we acknowledge that differences of opinion do exist within the reptile world. Therefore we do encourage you do read around this topic further and discuss it with known keepers and breeders.
If you feel that we have made any errors, please feel free to contact any member of the team and we will endeavour to research the subject at hand further.
written by Angi Nelson
Photos by Angi Nelson