Post by Admin - Angi on Apr 13, 2007 15:19:36 GMT
A basic care sheet Ive pulled together for our shop. Constructive criticism welcome as Ive only kept one of these before, but have done my best researching their care.
Horned/ornate Frog basic care guidelines
(Ceratophrys ornata)
Longevity—
5-7 years on average, but may live up to 10 years.
Origins –
Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay
Size –
Up to 6 inches with males generally being slightly smaller than females. Large females can weigh up to 1lb.
Description –
These are chunky frogs which can reach sizes of up to 6 inches, with the males generally being slightly smaller than the females. There is little demarcation between their huge head and body. They have very short legs and are typically green (shades vary) with red patches. The males have an area of darker skin under their chins and vocalise in the breeding season. Mature males can also be distinguished by nuptial pads( raised pads on the inside of their thumbs) which darken in colour during the breeding season(2 - Philippe de Vosjoli).
They received there common name of Horned frog due to the upper eyelids rising to form points which resemble horns.
They have very wide mouths with no teeth to speak of, but have a ridge of sharp bone which serves the same purpose.
Housing
– A minimum size would be a 21/2 – 3 ft vivarium, 18” deep. Choose a material which is durable and can withstand high humidity, such as glass, fibre glass, moulded plastic. The vivarium will require a good ventilation system, but not so much that maintaining humidity levels is difficult. A terrestrial vivarium is most suited as these frogs tend not to climb.
Vivarium furnishings –
Décor such as commercially available hides, cork bark, plastic plants etc can all be used within the vivarium. Look for products which will withstand the high humidity levels and regular cleaning.
Substrate –
Suitable substrates are those that help retain humidity. Sphagnum moss is a popular choice and should be rinsed out thoroughly on alternate days and fully changed at least every 2 – 3 weeks. Coco fibre is also suitable and these frogs love to bury themselves in it.
Temperature and heating –
Temperatures need to be between 82-86F for juvienilles and 76 – 84F for adults during the daytime and night time temps should be around 76-78 for young and in the low 70s for adults (temperatures recommended by both -1 Allen R Both, 2 Philippe de Vosjoli). The slightly higher temperatures for youngsters encourages growth and aids resistance to disease.
A heatmat or light bulb can provide the temperatures when used in combination with thermostat. Please ensure your frog cannot come into direct contact with the heating device. Only one half of the vivarium should be heated with device so that a temperature gradient is available for your frog.
Humidity and water -
Chlorine and chloramines in water can be harmful to your frog so it is suggested that you use either bottled water ( not distilled as this can also be harmful) or treat your tap water with a commercially available chlorine and chloramines remover – usually available at your local reptile shop or via the internet. Water needs to be provided in a large shallow dish, which is easy for your frog to climb into and out of. The water shoud be changed daily. Your frog does not drink like many other creatures, it absorbs water through the skin on its belly as well as absorbing water into its vent, which then goes into its bladder where t helps flush out any waste and toxins. You frog will defacate in its water – hence the importance of changing it frequently. Keep the water level at around ¼ - 1/3 of the frogs height when at rest( P de Vosjoli, The general care and maintenance of Horned frogs)( deeper may cause drowning) and consider adding a little gravel to the bowl to help your frog obtain a better grip enabling it to climb out.
P de Vosjoli suggests that a ph range of between 7.2 to 7.8 is ideal ornate frogs.
Ornate frogs come from tropical rainforests and consequently require a high humidty. This can be attained by spraying/misting, by planting the vivarium with live plants, by using a humidity retaining substrate or by altering the ventilation.
Lighting –
Uv lighting is a highly debatable subject and there are many differences of opinion, with little in the way of clear guidelines for this species. We urge you to look into this subject before making your own decision whether to provide your frog with UV. Some people provide Uv simply as an extra source of heat and to light up the vivarium.
Feeding –
These frogs have earned the name Pacman frogs due to their voracious appetites. Ornate frogs prefer to eat large food items, aim to keep the food items no larger than half of the body width ( at the largest). It has been published that they lose interest if only fed small items. Your frog will benefit from a varied diet hich can contain any of the following ( depending on size) crickets, hoppers, mealworms, silkworms, waxworms, earthworms, pinkies, fuzzies, small fish such as goldfish or guppies. Live food will require gutloading and dusting with a multivitamin, plus vitaminD3 and calcium powder every 2-3 feeds. If feeding on rodents and fish then you should include supplements twice monthly. Increase the size of food as your frog grows. Feed young frogs every day and fully grown adults every 10 – 14 days. Feeding frequency may need altering to suit your individual frog, as an adult, if it is becoming overweight it will need feeding less frequently, if its hip bones become prominent then it most likely requires feeding more frequently.
You may offer food with forceps (blunt ended to avoid trauma), this will reduce the chance of your frog ingesting substrate. Avoid feeding by hand or you may get bitten.
Sloughing –
Frogs do occasionally slough and eat their skins, the skin will appear cloudy before they shed it.
Estivation -
Ornate frogs become dormant during the cooler months in their native habitat and remain buried in the ground. This period is known as estivation and is similar to hibernation. During estivation they retain their skin and layers of skin can build up resulting in what appears like a plastic coating on the frog. During this time, the frog will absorb oxygen through its skin instead of via its nostrils(Allen R Both, 2005). Do not disturb your frog during this period as long as it appears otherwise healthy and is not losing weight, continue to provide water. Further reading in this area is recommended.
Temperament –
Ornate frogs can be aggressive if they feel threatened and have been known to bite. They may also mistake your moving fingers as food and attempt to eat them. They can put on a defensive display by standing up, puffing their body out and gaping. If bitten, do not pull away as your frog will tighten its grip and you may harm your frog, try to remain calm and keep still – it should let go of its own accord. Ornate frogs should be housed alone to avoid cannibalism.
Handling –
Handling can be detrimental to your frog as their protective coating can be damaged. They do not tolerate excessive handling, therefore it should be kept to a minimum ( ie when cleaning out viv). Soaps, perfumes and detergents can be absorbed through your frogs skin and be detrimental to its health, so when handling ensure your hands are free of chemicals. Also, only handle with wet hands, oils found on human skin can be harmful to frogs ( Mellissa Kaplan, 1993).
Suitability as a pet
Ornate frogs do not move around a great deal and as discussed are not a pet to be handled frequently. They are relatively easy to care for with hygiene requirements being extremely important.
Hygiene/cleaning
Spot clean the vivarium each day and the substrate will keep cleaner for longer. A full clean out should be performed every 2 – 4 weeks( yunger frogs kept at higher temperatures will require much more frequent cleaning). Do not use household detergents to cleanse the vivarium as they could harm your frog. There are many suitable commercially available products supplied by reptile shops and via the internet, which will not harm your frog if used as per the manufacturers instructions.
Written by Angi Nelson
This is meant only as a basic guideline and further reading is strongly recommended.
Suggested reading
Websites
Andrew Tilsens website www.pollywog.co.uk/cranwellshorncaresheet.html
Melissa Kaplans website –
www.anapsid.org/ornatacare.html
allaboutfrogs.org/info/species/horned.html
talkto.thefrog.org/
for a good explanation of why you need to remove chlorine from water for frogs – talkto.thefrog.org/index.php?action...&topic=3113
Books
1/ Horned frog care by Allen R Both
2/ The general care and maintenance of Horned frogs by Philippe de Vosjoli
Horned/ornate Frog basic care guidelines
(Ceratophrys ornata)
Longevity—
5-7 years on average, but may live up to 10 years.
Origins –
Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay
Size –
Up to 6 inches with males generally being slightly smaller than females. Large females can weigh up to 1lb.
Description –
These are chunky frogs which can reach sizes of up to 6 inches, with the males generally being slightly smaller than the females. There is little demarcation between their huge head and body. They have very short legs and are typically green (shades vary) with red patches. The males have an area of darker skin under their chins and vocalise in the breeding season. Mature males can also be distinguished by nuptial pads( raised pads on the inside of their thumbs) which darken in colour during the breeding season(2 - Philippe de Vosjoli).
They received there common name of Horned frog due to the upper eyelids rising to form points which resemble horns.
They have very wide mouths with no teeth to speak of, but have a ridge of sharp bone which serves the same purpose.
Housing
– A minimum size would be a 21/2 – 3 ft vivarium, 18” deep. Choose a material which is durable and can withstand high humidity, such as glass, fibre glass, moulded plastic. The vivarium will require a good ventilation system, but not so much that maintaining humidity levels is difficult. A terrestrial vivarium is most suited as these frogs tend not to climb.
Vivarium furnishings –
Décor such as commercially available hides, cork bark, plastic plants etc can all be used within the vivarium. Look for products which will withstand the high humidity levels and regular cleaning.
Substrate –
Suitable substrates are those that help retain humidity. Sphagnum moss is a popular choice and should be rinsed out thoroughly on alternate days and fully changed at least every 2 – 3 weeks. Coco fibre is also suitable and these frogs love to bury themselves in it.
Temperature and heating –
Temperatures need to be between 82-86F for juvienilles and 76 – 84F for adults during the daytime and night time temps should be around 76-78 for young and in the low 70s for adults (temperatures recommended by both -1 Allen R Both, 2 Philippe de Vosjoli). The slightly higher temperatures for youngsters encourages growth and aids resistance to disease.
A heatmat or light bulb can provide the temperatures when used in combination with thermostat. Please ensure your frog cannot come into direct contact with the heating device. Only one half of the vivarium should be heated with device so that a temperature gradient is available for your frog.
Humidity and water -
Chlorine and chloramines in water can be harmful to your frog so it is suggested that you use either bottled water ( not distilled as this can also be harmful) or treat your tap water with a commercially available chlorine and chloramines remover – usually available at your local reptile shop or via the internet. Water needs to be provided in a large shallow dish, which is easy for your frog to climb into and out of. The water shoud be changed daily. Your frog does not drink like many other creatures, it absorbs water through the skin on its belly as well as absorbing water into its vent, which then goes into its bladder where t helps flush out any waste and toxins. You frog will defacate in its water – hence the importance of changing it frequently. Keep the water level at around ¼ - 1/3 of the frogs height when at rest( P de Vosjoli, The general care and maintenance of Horned frogs)( deeper may cause drowning) and consider adding a little gravel to the bowl to help your frog obtain a better grip enabling it to climb out.
P de Vosjoli suggests that a ph range of between 7.2 to 7.8 is ideal ornate frogs.
Ornate frogs come from tropical rainforests and consequently require a high humidty. This can be attained by spraying/misting, by planting the vivarium with live plants, by using a humidity retaining substrate or by altering the ventilation.
Lighting –
Uv lighting is a highly debatable subject and there are many differences of opinion, with little in the way of clear guidelines for this species. We urge you to look into this subject before making your own decision whether to provide your frog with UV. Some people provide Uv simply as an extra source of heat and to light up the vivarium.
Feeding –
These frogs have earned the name Pacman frogs due to their voracious appetites. Ornate frogs prefer to eat large food items, aim to keep the food items no larger than half of the body width ( at the largest). It has been published that they lose interest if only fed small items. Your frog will benefit from a varied diet hich can contain any of the following ( depending on size) crickets, hoppers, mealworms, silkworms, waxworms, earthworms, pinkies, fuzzies, small fish such as goldfish or guppies. Live food will require gutloading and dusting with a multivitamin, plus vitaminD3 and calcium powder every 2-3 feeds. If feeding on rodents and fish then you should include supplements twice monthly. Increase the size of food as your frog grows. Feed young frogs every day and fully grown adults every 10 – 14 days. Feeding frequency may need altering to suit your individual frog, as an adult, if it is becoming overweight it will need feeding less frequently, if its hip bones become prominent then it most likely requires feeding more frequently.
You may offer food with forceps (blunt ended to avoid trauma), this will reduce the chance of your frog ingesting substrate. Avoid feeding by hand or you may get bitten.
Sloughing –
Frogs do occasionally slough and eat their skins, the skin will appear cloudy before they shed it.
Estivation -
Ornate frogs become dormant during the cooler months in their native habitat and remain buried in the ground. This period is known as estivation and is similar to hibernation. During estivation they retain their skin and layers of skin can build up resulting in what appears like a plastic coating on the frog. During this time, the frog will absorb oxygen through its skin instead of via its nostrils(Allen R Both, 2005). Do not disturb your frog during this period as long as it appears otherwise healthy and is not losing weight, continue to provide water. Further reading in this area is recommended.
Temperament –
Ornate frogs can be aggressive if they feel threatened and have been known to bite. They may also mistake your moving fingers as food and attempt to eat them. They can put on a defensive display by standing up, puffing their body out and gaping. If bitten, do not pull away as your frog will tighten its grip and you may harm your frog, try to remain calm and keep still – it should let go of its own accord. Ornate frogs should be housed alone to avoid cannibalism.
Handling –
Handling can be detrimental to your frog as their protective coating can be damaged. They do not tolerate excessive handling, therefore it should be kept to a minimum ( ie when cleaning out viv). Soaps, perfumes and detergents can be absorbed through your frogs skin and be detrimental to its health, so when handling ensure your hands are free of chemicals. Also, only handle with wet hands, oils found on human skin can be harmful to frogs ( Mellissa Kaplan, 1993).
Suitability as a pet
Ornate frogs do not move around a great deal and as discussed are not a pet to be handled frequently. They are relatively easy to care for with hygiene requirements being extremely important.
Hygiene/cleaning
Spot clean the vivarium each day and the substrate will keep cleaner for longer. A full clean out should be performed every 2 – 4 weeks( yunger frogs kept at higher temperatures will require much more frequent cleaning). Do not use household detergents to cleanse the vivarium as they could harm your frog. There are many suitable commercially available products supplied by reptile shops and via the internet, which will not harm your frog if used as per the manufacturers instructions.
Written by Angi Nelson
This is meant only as a basic guideline and further reading is strongly recommended.
Suggested reading
Websites
Andrew Tilsens website www.pollywog.co.uk/cranwellshorncaresheet.html
Melissa Kaplans website –
www.anapsid.org/ornatacare.html
allaboutfrogs.org/info/species/horned.html
talkto.thefrog.org/
for a good explanation of why you need to remove chlorine from water for frogs – talkto.thefrog.org/index.php?action...&topic=3113
Books
1/ Horned frog care by Allen R Both
2/ The general care and maintenance of Horned frogs by Philippe de Vosjoli