Post by Admin - Angi on Apr 13, 2007 15:05:07 GMT
Tomato frog care guidelines
Longevity
Up to 20 years
Origins
Tomato frogs belong to the family group Mycrohylidae and genus Dyscophus, of which there are 3 recognised species, Dyscophus antongilli, D. guineti and D.insularis. All three species are endemic to Madagascar and are only found on the northern part of the island. They can be found at elevations of up to 200 metres right down to sea level and tend to favour areas of humid forest.
Dyscophus antongilli earned their name as they hail from the region around Antongilli Bay. This species is endangered, largely due to deforestation of their habitat, destroying their living conditions and food sources. Over collection by the pet trade is also thought to have contributed to their low numbers. D.antongilli are protected under CITIES appendix 1, making them illegal in the trade. This species is the brightest of the three.
D.guineti is supposedly the most readily available of tomato frogs and is also know by several common names such the false tomato frog, Guinets frog and the Sambava frog.
The can be found in the north east of Madagascar and are generally yellowish-orange with brown lines.
D.insularis are the smallest of the three species often only growing to 2 inches long. They are known as the Western tomato frog as they originate from the north west of Madagascar. They have duller colouration, appearing more of a brownish orange.
Description
These chubby little reddish coloured frogs earned their name due to their appearance, being similar to tomatos – especially when they inflate. But their true colours can vary a great deal, presenting with many shades of orange, red and brown, even some yellow. Tomato frogs are sexually dimorphic, with the females generally displaying much brighter colours than the males, with the males tending to be duller browns usually. Juveniles are also duller and brighten with age. Their bellies are white to yellow and they often have black spots on their throats.
Fully grown adult Tomato frogs can measure anywhere between 2 and 4 inches in length, with females being larger than males in most cases.
If your tomato frog starts to change colour to a dull brown then it can be a sign that it is unhappy and possible stressed.
Housing
A terrestrial vivarium will be suitable for these primarily terrestrial frogs, 3 ft long by 18” deep and 18 or 24 inches high should be sufficient space for a small group (3-4) of these frogs.
Choose an enclosure material which will withstand high humidity levels and regular cleaning. Also consider ventilation carefully, a good airflow is required to help prevent a build up of stagnant air, but you may need to avoid screen tops as they can prevent the humidity reaching the required levels.
Vivarium furnishings
Use sturdy plants within the enclosure to provide climbing and hiding places, either plastic or live plants can be suitable. Cork bark, bendable vines ad commercially produced hides can all be used for extra perches and cover, but it may be prudent to choose materials which will withstand high humidity and regular cleaning.
Substrate
These frogs love to burrow down deep into the soil in their natural habitat, hence it is widely recommended that they are provided with a substrate which is at least 6 cm deep to allow for their natural behaviour. Suggested substrates include potting soil which is free from chemicals (which can be harmful to your frog), coco fibre, or a moisture retaining bark. Additionally an area of damp moss is strongly recommended, this must be rinsed out daily in dechlorinated water. The substrate needs to be kept damp but not wet and will require a daily spot clean to remove any waste or dead food and fully change the substrate every 2-3 weeks.
Temperature and heating
Juveniles require lower temperatures than adults and temperatures should not be raised above 80F until they have reached adult size. An ambient temperature of 75F is suggested with a warmer area to one side of the enclosure reaching up to 80F for young and up to 85F for adults. Night time temperatures can be allowed to drop to around 65 – 74F.
A heatmat would be an appropriate implement to obtain the desired temperatures, but this can depend on the temperatures of your house and seasonal changes. Bulbs are not appropriate and can dessicate frogs rapidly. Which ever heating device is utilised, be sure to use it as per manufacturers guidelines, use t in conjunction with the appropriate thermostat ( to obtain correct temperatures and avoid over heating) and to protect your frogs from harming/burning themselves on the device, by using a guard or placing heatmats outside the enclosure.
Humidity and water
Humidity should be kept between 70 and 80%, by misting the enclosure once or twice daily. Altering ventilation and using live plants plus using a moisture retaining substrate will aid maintenance of humidity levels.
Chlorine and chloramines can be harmful to your frog, therefore it would be wise to either leave water standing for 24 hours to allow chlorine to dissipate or add a commercially available water treatment to remove the said ingredients. There are many products available for this use and some also include a product for your frogs skin which is supposed to encourage slime coat development providing a natural protective barrier for amphibians, but the use of these is highly debateable amongst frog enthusiasts, so further reading is suggested. Use of distilled or reverse osmosis water is highly discouraged as both can result in detrimental health conditions for your frog.
Your frog will require fresh treated water provided in a shallow water dish daily, the water level should be no deeper than the height of the frogs nose when it is at rest. Ensure your frog can easily climb into and out of its water.
It is extremely important to provide water in a dish and keep it clean as frogs absorb water through their belly skin and also take it into their bladders via their vent. If water appears dirty then change it more frequently than daily – they do like to defacate in their water bowls!
Lighting
Advice on lighting for Tomato frogs varies, some recommend UVB lighting whilst others do not. Personally I like to provide UVB lighting as they do come into contact with it in the wild, although they are more nocturnal than diurnal, they will still come into contact with some UVB rays. California zoo state that the require a photo-period of 8 hours daily of UVB lighting and this aids absorbtion of minerals aswell as enhancing the frogs colour (see link 1).
Feeding
Tomato frogs will feed on most insects, commonly available food sources include crickets, small locusts, waxworms, phoenix worms, mealworms, silkworms, small thingyroaches, fruit flies( for youngsters) etc etc.. Whatever food you supply it will need to be gut-loaded in order to provide optimum nutrition for your frog. Basically you need to feed your insects on either one of the commercial insect foods or vegetables high in calcium such as cabbage ( not lettuce as this has little nutritional value). Variety is good for your frog and will help provide it with a healthy diet. Beware of catching insects locally as insecticides/weedkillers and other crop sprays can be harmful to your pet.
Juveniles require feeding daily and adults every 2-3 days. Dust food with a high quality multi vitamin and calcium supplement twice weekly – do not spray during feeding as you don’t want to wash of the supplement.
Feed appropriate sized insects, smaller for juveniles.
Temperament
These are a fairly shy frog and may not be seen a lot during the daytime as they are mostly nocturnal. They can inflate like a balloon if they feel threatenned, this is in order to make themselves look larger in the hope of scaring of predators.
Tomato frogs spend large amounts of time partially buried in substrate, waiting to ambush passing insects for food. Care should be taken that they do not mistake your hands as food as they may try to bite/eat your fingers.
Handling
Tomato frogs are known to produce a sticky, white mucus like substance( from their cheeks)(3), often when threatened, it is thought that the purpose of this substance is to deter predators as it is a mucous membrane irritant. Although not toxic, this goo can bring about an allergic reaction in humans, therefore we advise against handling. If handling is absolutely unavoidable, then gloves could be worn.
Apart from the above reason, handling frogs should be kept to a minimum anyway to avoid damaging their delicate skin and avoid stressing your frog.
Suitability as a pet
Tomato frogs are fascinating little frogs to watch, with interesting little behavioural quirks. But they are not a pet to be handled. Whilst primarily nocturnal, they do come out through the day. They are famous in Madagascar for their night time serenades, so you might not want to keep them in your bedroom!
Hygiene/cleaning
As with all frogs you will need to be fastidious with cleaning. It is extremely important to spot clean daily and fully clean the enclosure out regularly ( every 2 – 3 weeks). Do not use household cleaning products as they can be harmful to your frog, there are many safe, specialised cleaning products available from reptile shops and via the internet. It is also recommended that you avoid the use of soaps, perfumes and aftershaves etc on your hands whilst handling the frogs equipment, substrate, food or water as they too can be harmful to your frog.
Also avoid any use of aerosols or air fresheners in the room that you keep your frog in.
As with most animals frogs can carry zoonoses ( a disease which can pass from animals to humans) such as salmonella, this is easily avoided simply by washing your hands in hot soapy water following contact with your frog and its equipment.
Breeding
Just briefly -Tomato frogs belong to a group of frogs called Microhylids, often called nursery frogs as they look after their young. They breed in the rainy season in shallow, often stagnant water and occasionally slow moving water. They lay their eggs in damp soil on the forest bed, usually under damp leaf litter. They then cover the eggs with a type of anti fungal secretion for extra protection and guard the eggs for two days until they hatch. They do not have free swimming tadpoles.(3). If you intend to breed then it is strongly suggested that you read up about breeding this species, as you will need to simulate the various seasons in order to stimulate breeding.
Further reading
1/ www.calzoo.com/pdf/tomatofrogs.pdf
www.monkeyfrog.com/tomatofrogpage.html
3/ www.fdrproject.org/pages/SPmicro.htm re microhylid frogs
www.arkive.org/species/GES/amphibia.../more_info.html
Care guides
allaboutfrogs.org/info/species/tomato.html
www.frogdaze.com/tomato_frog.htm
Photographs
D.guineti:-
www.amphibiainfo.com/gallery/anura/...cophus/guineti/
D. insularis
www.livingunderworld.org/gallery/ph...phus/insularis/
Books
Identifying frogs and toads by Ken Preston-Mafham – (half page only)
Frogs, toads and treefrogs, everything about selection, care, nutrition, breeding and behaviour. By R D Bartlett & Patricia P Bartlett
This care guide is exactly as it says, a guide and further reading is strongly recomended. The guide was specifically produced for us at our shop. I have only gained experience over the past year with this species and have learned through friends/colleagues and lots of reading. I recognise that diferences of opinion do exist within the hobby ( ie re UVB, feeding etc) and do not claim to know it all, infact I openly encourage those with experience to post regarding their experiences so that I and others may learn more. Constructive criticism is welcomed - it will help me to learn.
Written by Angi Nelson
Photograph by Angi Nelson
Longevity
Up to 20 years
Origins
Tomato frogs belong to the family group Mycrohylidae and genus Dyscophus, of which there are 3 recognised species, Dyscophus antongilli, D. guineti and D.insularis. All three species are endemic to Madagascar and are only found on the northern part of the island. They can be found at elevations of up to 200 metres right down to sea level and tend to favour areas of humid forest.
Dyscophus antongilli earned their name as they hail from the region around Antongilli Bay. This species is endangered, largely due to deforestation of their habitat, destroying their living conditions and food sources. Over collection by the pet trade is also thought to have contributed to their low numbers. D.antongilli are protected under CITIES appendix 1, making them illegal in the trade. This species is the brightest of the three.
D.guineti is supposedly the most readily available of tomato frogs and is also know by several common names such the false tomato frog, Guinets frog and the Sambava frog.
The can be found in the north east of Madagascar and are generally yellowish-orange with brown lines.
D.insularis are the smallest of the three species often only growing to 2 inches long. They are known as the Western tomato frog as they originate from the north west of Madagascar. They have duller colouration, appearing more of a brownish orange.
Description
These chubby little reddish coloured frogs earned their name due to their appearance, being similar to tomatos – especially when they inflate. But their true colours can vary a great deal, presenting with many shades of orange, red and brown, even some yellow. Tomato frogs are sexually dimorphic, with the females generally displaying much brighter colours than the males, with the males tending to be duller browns usually. Juveniles are also duller and brighten with age. Their bellies are white to yellow and they often have black spots on their throats.
Fully grown adult Tomato frogs can measure anywhere between 2 and 4 inches in length, with females being larger than males in most cases.
If your tomato frog starts to change colour to a dull brown then it can be a sign that it is unhappy and possible stressed.
Housing
A terrestrial vivarium will be suitable for these primarily terrestrial frogs, 3 ft long by 18” deep and 18 or 24 inches high should be sufficient space for a small group (3-4) of these frogs.
Choose an enclosure material which will withstand high humidity levels and regular cleaning. Also consider ventilation carefully, a good airflow is required to help prevent a build up of stagnant air, but you may need to avoid screen tops as they can prevent the humidity reaching the required levels.
Vivarium furnishings
Use sturdy plants within the enclosure to provide climbing and hiding places, either plastic or live plants can be suitable. Cork bark, bendable vines ad commercially produced hides can all be used for extra perches and cover, but it may be prudent to choose materials which will withstand high humidity and regular cleaning.
Substrate
These frogs love to burrow down deep into the soil in their natural habitat, hence it is widely recommended that they are provided with a substrate which is at least 6 cm deep to allow for their natural behaviour. Suggested substrates include potting soil which is free from chemicals (which can be harmful to your frog), coco fibre, or a moisture retaining bark. Additionally an area of damp moss is strongly recommended, this must be rinsed out daily in dechlorinated water. The substrate needs to be kept damp but not wet and will require a daily spot clean to remove any waste or dead food and fully change the substrate every 2-3 weeks.
Temperature and heating
Juveniles require lower temperatures than adults and temperatures should not be raised above 80F until they have reached adult size. An ambient temperature of 75F is suggested with a warmer area to one side of the enclosure reaching up to 80F for young and up to 85F for adults. Night time temperatures can be allowed to drop to around 65 – 74F.
A heatmat would be an appropriate implement to obtain the desired temperatures, but this can depend on the temperatures of your house and seasonal changes. Bulbs are not appropriate and can dessicate frogs rapidly. Which ever heating device is utilised, be sure to use it as per manufacturers guidelines, use t in conjunction with the appropriate thermostat ( to obtain correct temperatures and avoid over heating) and to protect your frogs from harming/burning themselves on the device, by using a guard or placing heatmats outside the enclosure.
Humidity and water
Humidity should be kept between 70 and 80%, by misting the enclosure once or twice daily. Altering ventilation and using live plants plus using a moisture retaining substrate will aid maintenance of humidity levels.
Chlorine and chloramines can be harmful to your frog, therefore it would be wise to either leave water standing for 24 hours to allow chlorine to dissipate or add a commercially available water treatment to remove the said ingredients. There are many products available for this use and some also include a product for your frogs skin which is supposed to encourage slime coat development providing a natural protective barrier for amphibians, but the use of these is highly debateable amongst frog enthusiasts, so further reading is suggested. Use of distilled or reverse osmosis water is highly discouraged as both can result in detrimental health conditions for your frog.
Your frog will require fresh treated water provided in a shallow water dish daily, the water level should be no deeper than the height of the frogs nose when it is at rest. Ensure your frog can easily climb into and out of its water.
It is extremely important to provide water in a dish and keep it clean as frogs absorb water through their belly skin and also take it into their bladders via their vent. If water appears dirty then change it more frequently than daily – they do like to defacate in their water bowls!
Lighting
Advice on lighting for Tomato frogs varies, some recommend UVB lighting whilst others do not. Personally I like to provide UVB lighting as they do come into contact with it in the wild, although they are more nocturnal than diurnal, they will still come into contact with some UVB rays. California zoo state that the require a photo-period of 8 hours daily of UVB lighting and this aids absorbtion of minerals aswell as enhancing the frogs colour (see link 1).
Feeding
Tomato frogs will feed on most insects, commonly available food sources include crickets, small locusts, waxworms, phoenix worms, mealworms, silkworms, small thingyroaches, fruit flies( for youngsters) etc etc.. Whatever food you supply it will need to be gut-loaded in order to provide optimum nutrition for your frog. Basically you need to feed your insects on either one of the commercial insect foods or vegetables high in calcium such as cabbage ( not lettuce as this has little nutritional value). Variety is good for your frog and will help provide it with a healthy diet. Beware of catching insects locally as insecticides/weedkillers and other crop sprays can be harmful to your pet.
Juveniles require feeding daily and adults every 2-3 days. Dust food with a high quality multi vitamin and calcium supplement twice weekly – do not spray during feeding as you don’t want to wash of the supplement.
Feed appropriate sized insects, smaller for juveniles.
Temperament
These are a fairly shy frog and may not be seen a lot during the daytime as they are mostly nocturnal. They can inflate like a balloon if they feel threatenned, this is in order to make themselves look larger in the hope of scaring of predators.
Tomato frogs spend large amounts of time partially buried in substrate, waiting to ambush passing insects for food. Care should be taken that they do not mistake your hands as food as they may try to bite/eat your fingers.
Handling
Tomato frogs are known to produce a sticky, white mucus like substance( from their cheeks)(3), often when threatened, it is thought that the purpose of this substance is to deter predators as it is a mucous membrane irritant. Although not toxic, this goo can bring about an allergic reaction in humans, therefore we advise against handling. If handling is absolutely unavoidable, then gloves could be worn.
Apart from the above reason, handling frogs should be kept to a minimum anyway to avoid damaging their delicate skin and avoid stressing your frog.
Suitability as a pet
Tomato frogs are fascinating little frogs to watch, with interesting little behavioural quirks. But they are not a pet to be handled. Whilst primarily nocturnal, they do come out through the day. They are famous in Madagascar for their night time serenades, so you might not want to keep them in your bedroom!
Hygiene/cleaning
As with all frogs you will need to be fastidious with cleaning. It is extremely important to spot clean daily and fully clean the enclosure out regularly ( every 2 – 3 weeks). Do not use household cleaning products as they can be harmful to your frog, there are many safe, specialised cleaning products available from reptile shops and via the internet. It is also recommended that you avoid the use of soaps, perfumes and aftershaves etc on your hands whilst handling the frogs equipment, substrate, food or water as they too can be harmful to your frog.
Also avoid any use of aerosols or air fresheners in the room that you keep your frog in.
As with most animals frogs can carry zoonoses ( a disease which can pass from animals to humans) such as salmonella, this is easily avoided simply by washing your hands in hot soapy water following contact with your frog and its equipment.
Breeding
Just briefly -Tomato frogs belong to a group of frogs called Microhylids, often called nursery frogs as they look after their young. They breed in the rainy season in shallow, often stagnant water and occasionally slow moving water. They lay their eggs in damp soil on the forest bed, usually under damp leaf litter. They then cover the eggs with a type of anti fungal secretion for extra protection and guard the eggs for two days until they hatch. They do not have free swimming tadpoles.(3). If you intend to breed then it is strongly suggested that you read up about breeding this species, as you will need to simulate the various seasons in order to stimulate breeding.
Further reading
1/ www.calzoo.com/pdf/tomatofrogs.pdf
www.monkeyfrog.com/tomatofrogpage.html
3/ www.fdrproject.org/pages/SPmicro.htm re microhylid frogs
www.arkive.org/species/GES/amphibia.../more_info.html
Care guides
allaboutfrogs.org/info/species/tomato.html
www.frogdaze.com/tomato_frog.htm
Photographs
D.guineti:-
www.amphibiainfo.com/gallery/anura/...cophus/guineti/
D. insularis
www.livingunderworld.org/gallery/ph...phus/insularis/
Books
Identifying frogs and toads by Ken Preston-Mafham – (half page only)
Frogs, toads and treefrogs, everything about selection, care, nutrition, breeding and behaviour. By R D Bartlett & Patricia P Bartlett
This care guide is exactly as it says, a guide and further reading is strongly recomended. The guide was specifically produced for us at our shop. I have only gained experience over the past year with this species and have learned through friends/colleagues and lots of reading. I recognise that diferences of opinion do exist within the hobby ( ie re UVB, feeding etc) and do not claim to know it all, infact I openly encourage those with experience to post regarding their experiences so that I and others may learn more. Constructive criticism is welcomed - it will help me to learn.
Written by Angi Nelson
Photograph by Angi Nelson