Post by Admin - Angi on Apr 13, 2007 15:50:52 GMT
Monkey tailed skinks.
Corucia zebrata
Longevity Adult size
10-15 yrs 2-3 feet
Housing.
Enclosure minimum of 36”W x 36”H x 24”D for one, and 48”W for the housing of a pair. The larger and higher the enclosure the better, due to their size and arboreal nature. An enclosure capable of withstanding high humidity on a daily basis is imperative. Fish tanks/ aquariums are NOT suitable for reptiles despite what others may say so please don’t be tempted to use them.
Substrate.
Orchid or bark chippings are ideal to help maintain humidity levels in the enclosure.
Vivarium furnishings. The enclosure needs plenty of both horizontal and vertical branches for this arboreal species, making sure they are fixed secure. They have prehensile tails which curl around objects, and will also use the branches for balance. Plenty of hollow hides should be provided, as in their natural habitat, they are found in hollows during daytime hours. Pieces of cork bark are ideal for these hiding spots. Elevated hides, (securely positioned), around the enclosure are ideal for this species. Foliage will enhance the appearance of enclosure, but more importantly, give security for this species.
Temperature and humidity.
This species originates from a warm, humid rainforest background. They need 50-60% humidity normally and 75% during sloughing. Temperatures of 75f (cool) and 85f (warm), with an ambient temperature of 80f. Due to the large size of enclosure required, ceramic or spotlight heating will provide the most effective air temperatures that this animal needs. However, regardless of the type of heating, all heat sources should be adequately guarded and run on the appropriate thermostat (this is not an optional extra!).
Humidity and water. Fresh clean water should be available to them daily in a water bowl large enough to soak in. Spraying the enclosure once a day should give adequate humidity for them. Hygrometers inside will give you a good indication of humidity levels.
Lighting.
Even though this species is crepuscular, they still need full spectrum lighting in their enclosure. UVB lighting is essential to synthesise vitamin D3, which in turn enables them to metabolise calcium. For many lizards UVA lighting has psychological effects which could increase long term survival and stimulate feeding and breeding. We recommend Reptisun 5.0 tubes. During most of the year lights should be on around 12 hours per day, and reduce to 10 hours in winter, particularly if you are interested in breeding.
Feeding.
They are herbivores who should not be offered any kind of animal or insect protein. A diet of leafy greens such as dandelion, kale, carrot tops for 80% of their diet and fruit/flowers, (not acidic fruit), for 20%. Bananas, apples and papayas are found growing wild in their natural habitat along with flowers such as begonias and hibiscus. All foods can be prepared with calcium powder sprinkled over. Due to their crepuscular nature, food should be ideally given in the evenings, (in an appropriately sized dish), to retain freshness for them. Food such as leafy greens can also be “speared” onto branches around the enclosure for them.
Temperament.
These animals are crepuscular and shy away in the daylight hours. Both the male and female of this species can be territorial. They are very protective of their young, but are usually quite docile natured. Young ones may show signs of aggression, but usually only as a defence mechanism.
Suitability as a pet. This fascinating animal is suitable for the experienced reptile keeper, concentrating on correct husbandry and possible breeding.
Things to consider.
This is not suitable for a first reptile, due to it’s specific husbandry needs. Due to the destruction of it’s natural habitat, it is listed by CITES II, meaning they are classed as a threatened species. A breeding pair would be good to encourage the future captive bred generation. The female only produces one live young after nearly seven months of being gravid, (occasionally two), bi-annually. Who will look after this animal daily while you are away? Have you access to all of it’s dietary needs?
Contributed by Rachel Adams ( from The Reptile Zone, Bristol, UK)
Rachel has also written an article about Monkey tailed skinks which was published last year by Reptile Care magazine.
Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of these care sheets, we acknowledge that differences of opinion do exist within the reptile world. Therefore we do encourage you do read around this topic further and discuss it with known keepers and breeders.
If you feel that we have made any errors, please feel free to contact any member of the team and we will endeavour to research the subject at hand further.
Corucia zebrata
Longevity Adult size
10-15 yrs 2-3 feet
Housing.
Enclosure minimum of 36”W x 36”H x 24”D for one, and 48”W for the housing of a pair. The larger and higher the enclosure the better, due to their size and arboreal nature. An enclosure capable of withstanding high humidity on a daily basis is imperative. Fish tanks/ aquariums are NOT suitable for reptiles despite what others may say so please don’t be tempted to use them.
Substrate.
Orchid or bark chippings are ideal to help maintain humidity levels in the enclosure.
Vivarium furnishings. The enclosure needs plenty of both horizontal and vertical branches for this arboreal species, making sure they are fixed secure. They have prehensile tails which curl around objects, and will also use the branches for balance. Plenty of hollow hides should be provided, as in their natural habitat, they are found in hollows during daytime hours. Pieces of cork bark are ideal for these hiding spots. Elevated hides, (securely positioned), around the enclosure are ideal for this species. Foliage will enhance the appearance of enclosure, but more importantly, give security for this species.
Temperature and humidity.
This species originates from a warm, humid rainforest background. They need 50-60% humidity normally and 75% during sloughing. Temperatures of 75f (cool) and 85f (warm), with an ambient temperature of 80f. Due to the large size of enclosure required, ceramic or spotlight heating will provide the most effective air temperatures that this animal needs. However, regardless of the type of heating, all heat sources should be adequately guarded and run on the appropriate thermostat (this is not an optional extra!).
Humidity and water. Fresh clean water should be available to them daily in a water bowl large enough to soak in. Spraying the enclosure once a day should give adequate humidity for them. Hygrometers inside will give you a good indication of humidity levels.
Lighting.
Even though this species is crepuscular, they still need full spectrum lighting in their enclosure. UVB lighting is essential to synthesise vitamin D3, which in turn enables them to metabolise calcium. For many lizards UVA lighting has psychological effects which could increase long term survival and stimulate feeding and breeding. We recommend Reptisun 5.0 tubes. During most of the year lights should be on around 12 hours per day, and reduce to 10 hours in winter, particularly if you are interested in breeding.
Feeding.
They are herbivores who should not be offered any kind of animal or insect protein. A diet of leafy greens such as dandelion, kale, carrot tops for 80% of their diet and fruit/flowers, (not acidic fruit), for 20%. Bananas, apples and papayas are found growing wild in their natural habitat along with flowers such as begonias and hibiscus. All foods can be prepared with calcium powder sprinkled over. Due to their crepuscular nature, food should be ideally given in the evenings, (in an appropriately sized dish), to retain freshness for them. Food such as leafy greens can also be “speared” onto branches around the enclosure for them.
Temperament.
These animals are crepuscular and shy away in the daylight hours. Both the male and female of this species can be territorial. They are very protective of their young, but are usually quite docile natured. Young ones may show signs of aggression, but usually only as a defence mechanism.
Suitability as a pet. This fascinating animal is suitable for the experienced reptile keeper, concentrating on correct husbandry and possible breeding.
Things to consider.
This is not suitable for a first reptile, due to it’s specific husbandry needs. Due to the destruction of it’s natural habitat, it is listed by CITES II, meaning they are classed as a threatened species. A breeding pair would be good to encourage the future captive bred generation. The female only produces one live young after nearly seven months of being gravid, (occasionally two), bi-annually. Who will look after this animal daily while you are away? Have you access to all of it’s dietary needs?
Contributed by Rachel Adams ( from The Reptile Zone, Bristol, UK)
Rachel has also written an article about Monkey tailed skinks which was published last year by Reptile Care magazine.
Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of these care sheets, we acknowledge that differences of opinion do exist within the reptile world. Therefore we do encourage you do read around this topic further and discuss it with known keepers and breeders.
If you feel that we have made any errors, please feel free to contact any member of the team and we will endeavour to research the subject at hand further.