Post by Admin - Angi on Apr 13, 2007 15:34:45 GMT
The crested gecko care sheet by Angi Nelson and James Dellow
Crested gecko care guidelines
(Reviewed - 27-11-06)
Information and background on crested geckos
Natural habitat
Rhacodactylus ciliatus, better known as crested geckos, are found on the island of New Caledonia, which is north of Australia. Previously thought to be extinct with the last description being in 1866, a single specimen was discovered by R Seipp in 1994. They have been discovered living mainly on the southern half of the island and on the nearby Isle of Pines and Isle of Komoto.
Their natural habitat is humid lowland forest, with humidity levels ranging from 70 to 86% and average temperatures tend to range from 64C to 83C.They are generally found dwelling in trees and often hide in leaves, either on the trees or on the forest floor.
Appearance
These geckos earned their name from the distinctive crests running from the top rim of the eye down their backs. They have almost triangular shaped heads and prehensile tails. They have sticky pads on their feet and the end of the tail enabling them to climb almost any surface and manoeuvre their way around the forest.
Crested Geckos can grow to almost 10 inches, but in captivity most grow to be around 6 or 7 inches.
Body colour and pattern are quite variable and they have the ability to change colour slightly. Colours includes yellow, orange, salmon, red, buckskin, chocolate, green and olive. Typical patterns are often described as Harlequin, dalmation, fire and pinstripe.
Due to the short time since rediscovery, their lifespan is at present unknown but it believed to be in excess of 10 years
Temperment
Generally cresties are good natured and although often shy at first, with regular, gentle and careful handling they do appear to enjoy being handled for short periods. Care must be taken to avoid stressing these geckos, as they can drop their tails, which do not grow back. Although the lack of tail does not generally affect the gecko in any adverse way ( despite a risk of infection) and many are found without tails in the wild.
They appear to thrive both alone or housed in small groups in captivity. Males should not be housed together due to a high risk of injury or even death due to fighting. Males housed together from an early age have been known to co-exist with social hierarchy, but once sexual maturity develops or females are introduced, then fighting becomes almost inevitable.
They are social creatures and one male can be housed with several females.
They can be heard communicating at night , making clicking, growling and barks.
Feeding
Fruit
In the wild crested geckos mainly eat fruit. This has been determined by faecal analysis.
In captivity it is good to aim for a similar diet, despite complete diets being available. Such complete diets could always be added to the fruit to boost nutritional value. The best time to feed is probably late evening as they are nocturnal. Fruit needs to be pureed or mashed as these geckos cannot masticate effectively.
Suitable fruits such as peaches, bananas, pears, apricots and apples can be pureed, or fruit baby food can be used and some geckos even enjoy figs, so offer variety to increase nutritional benefits. Citrus fruits should be avoided. Youre gecko may also eat other types of baby food including vegtables or meat. Fruit should be offered to hatchlings, juveniles and adults 3-4 times weekly. It can be served on shallow bottle tops, enabling the geckos to eat with ease, 1/2 to 1 tea-sthingy of food per gecko. Any uneaten food should be removed before going moldy or attracting ants which can kill crested geckos, although some people find their cresties eat the fruit after its been in the enclosure for a day rather than immediately – this may be due to the fact that in the wild they are unable to successfully eat the fruit until it has become softened by being over ripe.
Calcium(not containing phosphorus) and vitamin D3 powder should be added to fruit once weekly for hatchlings, juveniles and breeding females, and every other feed for adults. Multivitamins for reptiles will need adding once weekly (or follow the manufacturers guidelines).
Bee pollen amd spirulina can be added once weekly to increase nutritional value.
Insects
A diet including insects provides some stimulation and boosts activity levels. It also provides variety taste wise and more scope for nutrition.
Crested geckos have weak mandibles and do not chew the insects very well, so types of insects should be chosen with this in mind.
Crested geckos should be fed insects that are no larger than the space between its eyes. they eat a variety of insects including crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and small beetles. Each gecko should be offered 3 - 5 appropriate sized insects at each serving.
Hatchlings should be fed 10 - 14 day old crickets every other day. Juveniles and adults can be fed the appropriate sized insects two or three times weekly. Breeding geckos should be fed daily.
Insects should be dusted lightly with calcium and vitamin D3 powder twice weekly for hatchlings and juveniles, adults every other cricket feeding.
Insects should be gut loaded to ensure high nutritional value. Crickets can be fed on commercially available foods and a variety of vegtables, especially leafy green vegtables to increase calcium levels. The vegetables provide a source of water for the crickets. It is important to keep youre crickets in clean, sanitory conditions, youre gecko will reap the benefits from good quality insects. Dead crickets should be removed from the cricket tub each day.
The Crested gecko diet is being used successfully by keepers and breeders alike, it is a possible alternative when keepers do not like insects and geckos fed solely on this diet have shown no adverse effects, plus continue to breed successfully.
Captive enviroment
The minimum size vivarium that an adult crested gecko should be kept in is one that is 12x12x24 (in inches). The most important requirement is height, crested geckos are primarily arboreal and spend most of their time hiding in trees or tall plants. They will venture down to the bottom of the vivarium to feed but other than that they prefer to stay in the top portion of their home.
Crested geckos are by nature nocturnal and so will spend most of the day hidden from view. They require lots of hiding places at varying heights throughout their vivarium. Dense plants, logs or commercially available reptile hides all are excellent choices. You may chose to use live, plastic or silk plants depending on your personal preference. One benefit of using silk or plastic plants over live is that they will tolerate a good clean. Crested geckos are very messy, unlike other gecko’s they do not have a specific point that they defecate in. They will go anywhere and everywhere and as they eat fruit it is rather more sloppy than that of leopard geckos. The entire enclosure will need to be routinely cleaned at least once a month or so depending on how many geckos occupy the vivarium.
Substrate is something that has been subject to many debates among owners and always will be. In a simplistic vivarium newspaper or kitchen paper can be used. There is minimal chance of ingestion and it is cheap to replace. Other popular substrates include potting soil, mosses (sphagnum is most popular) or leaf litter. It is thought by some owners that if they can survive with it in the wild they can survive on it in captivity. However in the wild they rarely need to come down to the ground and so the chance of them ingesting the ground material. In captivity they are usually fed on the ground and the crickets let lose in the vivarium so the chance of ingestion is greatly increased. Ingestion of substrate in small amounts will do little if any damage however in young specimens it may cause impaction. The gut becomes blocked and it may result in the death of the animal.
For hatchling crested geckos it is best to keep them in a small arboreal vivarium, with paper towel as substrate and a basic enclosure. This way it is easy for them to find their food and there is no chance of ingestion of substrate and impaction. Once an overall length of 5 or 6 inches is reached the gecko can be transferred into its larger vivarium. It is best to house hatchlings and juveniles singly to avoid bullying and competition for food. Once they are grown on they may be introduced to others, however only one male per cage as they are extremely aggressive to each other.
A vivarium measuring 18x18x24 may house a pair or trio of adult crested geckos (1 male and 1 or 2 females or just 2 or 3 females with no males). However this is a minimum requirement and bigger is always better. If you plan on keeping females in with a male, then have separate accommodation for the male to be separated for a few months each year. A female can be over bred and will quickly become calcium deficient. The male should be separated from the females for 2-3 months a year at least to allow the females to be fed up and their calcium reserves to be replenished.
Temperature and Humidity.
Crested geckos do best at temperatures in the low-mid 70’s (Fahrenheit). Over heating is much more of a problem than them being too cold. It is for this reason that care should be taken in the summer months to prevent overheating. An air cooler or an air conditioning unit may be required to keep the temperature within the desired range. Most crested geckos can be kept at normal room temperature in the winter months which is another benefit to these extraordinary creatures. If your ambient room temperature gets below 60F in the winter months during the day then you may need to install some supplementary heating. The best way to add a gentle heat to your crested gecko vivarium is with a low wattage bulb protected with a mesh heat guard. This is to prevent the lamellae from being damaged on their delicate toes and possible thermal burns. ALWAYS USE A THERMOSTAT TO PREVENT THE TEMPERATURE FROM GETTING TOO HIGH. Crested geckos have been known to die when exposed to temperatures over 85F for just over an hour.
Although some people would recommend using a heat mat, these are not really the best option. They do not raise the ambient air temperature so only provide a hot spot on the side of the vivarium. Crested geckos have not evolved to absorb heat through their abdomens, they live in rainforest in the wild where the temperature is constant all year round. If your crested gecko gets direct access to the heat mat there is a chance of the lamellae getting damaged. Heat mats are also prone to over heating which is another danger to your crested geckos. Again if you chose to use a heat mat ensure it is controlled by a thermostat at all times to prevent over heating.
Humidity should be maintained between 60% and 70% although it is best to keep it slightly higher while they are young. This is to prevent shedding problems which can endanger the delicate hatchlings. The best way to do this is to buy a spray bottle which can deliver a fine mist and give a heavy spray in the evenings. This should be enough for adults but while young or getting ready to shed an extra light spray in the mornings may be required.
Misting also serves the purpose as drinking water, for this reason the water should be allowed to stand for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate. Alternatively a water conditioner may be used to instantly prepare the water. Many crested geckos will not recognise standing water in a bowl although it should always be provided, this makes the sprays even more important. The vivarium should be kept humid but not constantly wet as this may cause fungal infections or respiratory problems.
Another way of keeping the humidity up is by using one of the commercially available water falls. These not only increase humidity but provide a moving water source which is more readily accepted by crested geckos than a bowl of water. Although even if you chose to use one of these the vivarium needs to be sprayed lightly in the evening once daily.
Breeding
Crested geckos sexually mature at around 8 to 9 months and it is usually easy to determine the sex by observing the hemipenal bulges adjacent to the vent at the base of the tail by this age. It is generally recommended that females are not bred until they are 12 months old and have reached a weight of 35grams. This will help ensure your female is a good healthy adult size and more likely to produce viable eggs. If breeding in groups it is recommended to put no more than 4 females with one male to avoid stress on the male and poor egg production.
Be prepared for the male crested gecko to be quite aggressive whilst mating. Normal breeding behaviour includes the male biting the females head and neck, quite visciously at times, if the female becomes wounded then remove her and seek treatment from a vet. The geckos should breed readily once introduced and produce eggs within 21 – 28 days of mating.
Although they usually produce two eggs at a time it has been known for females to lay only one egg, mainly on her first time breeding. If only one egg is produced it is important to consult a vet to ensure your gecko is not retaining an egg as this could have dire consequences. Females can produce up to 12 clutches of eggs per season ( spring to autumn), but as mentioned previously it is essential for the females health that she is separated from the male for a few months a year. This is to prevent the effects of stress, and allow the female time to recouperate. Over bred females can suffer from calcium deficiencies with major detrimental effects . If regularly breeding crested geckos it is also advised that they are provided with a cooling period which imitates their natural environment, with daytime temperatures of 70 – 80F and night time at 60 – 65F.
Your gecko will require a suitable area in which to lay their eggs. This can be as simple as a plastic tub containing moist vermiculite, coco fibre or potting soil or they can lay eggs within the soil of any natural plants within the enclosure. For ease in finding the eggs it may be a good idea to use a basic substrate such as newspaper or kitchen towel in the rest of the enclosure otherwise eggs can easily be missed. The female can be seen digging in her chosen egg laying area in the lead up to laying. She will bury her eggs deep within the the nesting area and care must be taken when retrieving them. Check daily for eggs and remove within 24 hours to avoid dessication or disintegration. Although eggs can hatch within an enclosure, the adults have been known to eat the hatchlings and observation whilst incubation allows for remedial action to be taken if problems occur.
Healthy eggs should be white and leathery in appearance with a semi hard shell.
Many preferences exist for incubation of eggs with vermiculite being one of the most popular. The eggs should be placed in the same position the were found in, half buried in the slightly damp vermiculite, with the top of the egg marked with a pencil. They can be covered with a double layer of kitchen towel which can be sprayed to maintain appropriate humidity as required. Check the eggs at least every other day. Incubation can be in an incubator set at 78F or simply at room temperature of 72 – 80F. Crested gecko eggs can take anything from 65 to 130 days to hatch – the lower the temperature the longer it may take. Hatching can take anything from a few minutes up to a few hours.
Hatchling care
Hatchling crested geckos are very fragile. They benefit from small basic, simple enclosues, enabling ease in finding food. They must have climbing areas and foliage to enable them to feel secure. Newspaper or kitchen towel is suitable substrate whilst young. They will require food and water served in very shallow containers such as a milk bottle or jar lid. They require misting twice daily to avoid problems with shedding. The hatchling should shed its skin within a few days and will eat this skin. They often do not eat until after they have shed their skin, but have been observed eating within minutes of hatching.
Written by James Dellow and Angi Nelson
Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of these care sheets, we acknowledge that differences of opinion do exist within the reptile world. Therefore we do encourage you do read around this topic further and discuss it with known keepers and breeders.
If you feel that we have made any errors, please feel free to contact any member of the team and we will endeavour to research the subject at hand further.
Photograph by Angi Nelson
Crested gecko care guidelines
(Reviewed - 27-11-06)
Information and background on crested geckos
Natural habitat
Rhacodactylus ciliatus, better known as crested geckos, are found on the island of New Caledonia, which is north of Australia. Previously thought to be extinct with the last description being in 1866, a single specimen was discovered by R Seipp in 1994. They have been discovered living mainly on the southern half of the island and on the nearby Isle of Pines and Isle of Komoto.
Their natural habitat is humid lowland forest, with humidity levels ranging from 70 to 86% and average temperatures tend to range from 64C to 83C.They are generally found dwelling in trees and often hide in leaves, either on the trees or on the forest floor.
Appearance
These geckos earned their name from the distinctive crests running from the top rim of the eye down their backs. They have almost triangular shaped heads and prehensile tails. They have sticky pads on their feet and the end of the tail enabling them to climb almost any surface and manoeuvre their way around the forest.
Crested Geckos can grow to almost 10 inches, but in captivity most grow to be around 6 or 7 inches.
Body colour and pattern are quite variable and they have the ability to change colour slightly. Colours includes yellow, orange, salmon, red, buckskin, chocolate, green and olive. Typical patterns are often described as Harlequin, dalmation, fire and pinstripe.
Due to the short time since rediscovery, their lifespan is at present unknown but it believed to be in excess of 10 years
Temperment
Generally cresties are good natured and although often shy at first, with regular, gentle and careful handling they do appear to enjoy being handled for short periods. Care must be taken to avoid stressing these geckos, as they can drop their tails, which do not grow back. Although the lack of tail does not generally affect the gecko in any adverse way ( despite a risk of infection) and many are found without tails in the wild.
They appear to thrive both alone or housed in small groups in captivity. Males should not be housed together due to a high risk of injury or even death due to fighting. Males housed together from an early age have been known to co-exist with social hierarchy, but once sexual maturity develops or females are introduced, then fighting becomes almost inevitable.
They are social creatures and one male can be housed with several females.
They can be heard communicating at night , making clicking, growling and barks.
Feeding
Fruit
In the wild crested geckos mainly eat fruit. This has been determined by faecal analysis.
In captivity it is good to aim for a similar diet, despite complete diets being available. Such complete diets could always be added to the fruit to boost nutritional value. The best time to feed is probably late evening as they are nocturnal. Fruit needs to be pureed or mashed as these geckos cannot masticate effectively.
Suitable fruits such as peaches, bananas, pears, apricots and apples can be pureed, or fruit baby food can be used and some geckos even enjoy figs, so offer variety to increase nutritional benefits. Citrus fruits should be avoided. Youre gecko may also eat other types of baby food including vegtables or meat. Fruit should be offered to hatchlings, juveniles and adults 3-4 times weekly. It can be served on shallow bottle tops, enabling the geckos to eat with ease, 1/2 to 1 tea-sthingy of food per gecko. Any uneaten food should be removed before going moldy or attracting ants which can kill crested geckos, although some people find their cresties eat the fruit after its been in the enclosure for a day rather than immediately – this may be due to the fact that in the wild they are unable to successfully eat the fruit until it has become softened by being over ripe.
Calcium(not containing phosphorus) and vitamin D3 powder should be added to fruit once weekly for hatchlings, juveniles and breeding females, and every other feed for adults. Multivitamins for reptiles will need adding once weekly (or follow the manufacturers guidelines).
Bee pollen amd spirulina can be added once weekly to increase nutritional value.
Insects
A diet including insects provides some stimulation and boosts activity levels. It also provides variety taste wise and more scope for nutrition.
Crested geckos have weak mandibles and do not chew the insects very well, so types of insects should be chosen with this in mind.
Crested geckos should be fed insects that are no larger than the space between its eyes. they eat a variety of insects including crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and small beetles. Each gecko should be offered 3 - 5 appropriate sized insects at each serving.
Hatchlings should be fed 10 - 14 day old crickets every other day. Juveniles and adults can be fed the appropriate sized insects two or three times weekly. Breeding geckos should be fed daily.
Insects should be dusted lightly with calcium and vitamin D3 powder twice weekly for hatchlings and juveniles, adults every other cricket feeding.
Insects should be gut loaded to ensure high nutritional value. Crickets can be fed on commercially available foods and a variety of vegtables, especially leafy green vegtables to increase calcium levels. The vegetables provide a source of water for the crickets. It is important to keep youre crickets in clean, sanitory conditions, youre gecko will reap the benefits from good quality insects. Dead crickets should be removed from the cricket tub each day.
The Crested gecko diet is being used successfully by keepers and breeders alike, it is a possible alternative when keepers do not like insects and geckos fed solely on this diet have shown no adverse effects, plus continue to breed successfully.
Captive enviroment
The minimum size vivarium that an adult crested gecko should be kept in is one that is 12x12x24 (in inches). The most important requirement is height, crested geckos are primarily arboreal and spend most of their time hiding in trees or tall plants. They will venture down to the bottom of the vivarium to feed but other than that they prefer to stay in the top portion of their home.
Crested geckos are by nature nocturnal and so will spend most of the day hidden from view. They require lots of hiding places at varying heights throughout their vivarium. Dense plants, logs or commercially available reptile hides all are excellent choices. You may chose to use live, plastic or silk plants depending on your personal preference. One benefit of using silk or plastic plants over live is that they will tolerate a good clean. Crested geckos are very messy, unlike other gecko’s they do not have a specific point that they defecate in. They will go anywhere and everywhere and as they eat fruit it is rather more sloppy than that of leopard geckos. The entire enclosure will need to be routinely cleaned at least once a month or so depending on how many geckos occupy the vivarium.
Substrate is something that has been subject to many debates among owners and always will be. In a simplistic vivarium newspaper or kitchen paper can be used. There is minimal chance of ingestion and it is cheap to replace. Other popular substrates include potting soil, mosses (sphagnum is most popular) or leaf litter. It is thought by some owners that if they can survive with it in the wild they can survive on it in captivity. However in the wild they rarely need to come down to the ground and so the chance of them ingesting the ground material. In captivity they are usually fed on the ground and the crickets let lose in the vivarium so the chance of ingestion is greatly increased. Ingestion of substrate in small amounts will do little if any damage however in young specimens it may cause impaction. The gut becomes blocked and it may result in the death of the animal.
For hatchling crested geckos it is best to keep them in a small arboreal vivarium, with paper towel as substrate and a basic enclosure. This way it is easy for them to find their food and there is no chance of ingestion of substrate and impaction. Once an overall length of 5 or 6 inches is reached the gecko can be transferred into its larger vivarium. It is best to house hatchlings and juveniles singly to avoid bullying and competition for food. Once they are grown on they may be introduced to others, however only one male per cage as they are extremely aggressive to each other.
A vivarium measuring 18x18x24 may house a pair or trio of adult crested geckos (1 male and 1 or 2 females or just 2 or 3 females with no males). However this is a minimum requirement and bigger is always better. If you plan on keeping females in with a male, then have separate accommodation for the male to be separated for a few months each year. A female can be over bred and will quickly become calcium deficient. The male should be separated from the females for 2-3 months a year at least to allow the females to be fed up and their calcium reserves to be replenished.
Temperature and Humidity.
Crested geckos do best at temperatures in the low-mid 70’s (Fahrenheit). Over heating is much more of a problem than them being too cold. It is for this reason that care should be taken in the summer months to prevent overheating. An air cooler or an air conditioning unit may be required to keep the temperature within the desired range. Most crested geckos can be kept at normal room temperature in the winter months which is another benefit to these extraordinary creatures. If your ambient room temperature gets below 60F in the winter months during the day then you may need to install some supplementary heating. The best way to add a gentle heat to your crested gecko vivarium is with a low wattage bulb protected with a mesh heat guard. This is to prevent the lamellae from being damaged on their delicate toes and possible thermal burns. ALWAYS USE A THERMOSTAT TO PREVENT THE TEMPERATURE FROM GETTING TOO HIGH. Crested geckos have been known to die when exposed to temperatures over 85F for just over an hour.
Although some people would recommend using a heat mat, these are not really the best option. They do not raise the ambient air temperature so only provide a hot spot on the side of the vivarium. Crested geckos have not evolved to absorb heat through their abdomens, they live in rainforest in the wild where the temperature is constant all year round. If your crested gecko gets direct access to the heat mat there is a chance of the lamellae getting damaged. Heat mats are also prone to over heating which is another danger to your crested geckos. Again if you chose to use a heat mat ensure it is controlled by a thermostat at all times to prevent over heating.
Humidity should be maintained between 60% and 70% although it is best to keep it slightly higher while they are young. This is to prevent shedding problems which can endanger the delicate hatchlings. The best way to do this is to buy a spray bottle which can deliver a fine mist and give a heavy spray in the evenings. This should be enough for adults but while young or getting ready to shed an extra light spray in the mornings may be required.
Misting also serves the purpose as drinking water, for this reason the water should be allowed to stand for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate. Alternatively a water conditioner may be used to instantly prepare the water. Many crested geckos will not recognise standing water in a bowl although it should always be provided, this makes the sprays even more important. The vivarium should be kept humid but not constantly wet as this may cause fungal infections or respiratory problems.
Another way of keeping the humidity up is by using one of the commercially available water falls. These not only increase humidity but provide a moving water source which is more readily accepted by crested geckos than a bowl of water. Although even if you chose to use one of these the vivarium needs to be sprayed lightly in the evening once daily.
Breeding
Crested geckos sexually mature at around 8 to 9 months and it is usually easy to determine the sex by observing the hemipenal bulges adjacent to the vent at the base of the tail by this age. It is generally recommended that females are not bred until they are 12 months old and have reached a weight of 35grams. This will help ensure your female is a good healthy adult size and more likely to produce viable eggs. If breeding in groups it is recommended to put no more than 4 females with one male to avoid stress on the male and poor egg production.
Be prepared for the male crested gecko to be quite aggressive whilst mating. Normal breeding behaviour includes the male biting the females head and neck, quite visciously at times, if the female becomes wounded then remove her and seek treatment from a vet. The geckos should breed readily once introduced and produce eggs within 21 – 28 days of mating.
Although they usually produce two eggs at a time it has been known for females to lay only one egg, mainly on her first time breeding. If only one egg is produced it is important to consult a vet to ensure your gecko is not retaining an egg as this could have dire consequences. Females can produce up to 12 clutches of eggs per season ( spring to autumn), but as mentioned previously it is essential for the females health that she is separated from the male for a few months a year. This is to prevent the effects of stress, and allow the female time to recouperate. Over bred females can suffer from calcium deficiencies with major detrimental effects . If regularly breeding crested geckos it is also advised that they are provided with a cooling period which imitates their natural environment, with daytime temperatures of 70 – 80F and night time at 60 – 65F.
Your gecko will require a suitable area in which to lay their eggs. This can be as simple as a plastic tub containing moist vermiculite, coco fibre or potting soil or they can lay eggs within the soil of any natural plants within the enclosure. For ease in finding the eggs it may be a good idea to use a basic substrate such as newspaper or kitchen towel in the rest of the enclosure otherwise eggs can easily be missed. The female can be seen digging in her chosen egg laying area in the lead up to laying. She will bury her eggs deep within the the nesting area and care must be taken when retrieving them. Check daily for eggs and remove within 24 hours to avoid dessication or disintegration. Although eggs can hatch within an enclosure, the adults have been known to eat the hatchlings and observation whilst incubation allows for remedial action to be taken if problems occur.
Healthy eggs should be white and leathery in appearance with a semi hard shell.
Many preferences exist for incubation of eggs with vermiculite being one of the most popular. The eggs should be placed in the same position the were found in, half buried in the slightly damp vermiculite, with the top of the egg marked with a pencil. They can be covered with a double layer of kitchen towel which can be sprayed to maintain appropriate humidity as required. Check the eggs at least every other day. Incubation can be in an incubator set at 78F or simply at room temperature of 72 – 80F. Crested gecko eggs can take anything from 65 to 130 days to hatch – the lower the temperature the longer it may take. Hatching can take anything from a few minutes up to a few hours.
Hatchling care
Hatchling crested geckos are very fragile. They benefit from small basic, simple enclosues, enabling ease in finding food. They must have climbing areas and foliage to enable them to feel secure. Newspaper or kitchen towel is suitable substrate whilst young. They will require food and water served in very shallow containers such as a milk bottle or jar lid. They require misting twice daily to avoid problems with shedding. The hatchling should shed its skin within a few days and will eat this skin. They often do not eat until after they have shed their skin, but have been observed eating within minutes of hatching.
Written by James Dellow and Angi Nelson
Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of these care sheets, we acknowledge that differences of opinion do exist within the reptile world. Therefore we do encourage you do read around this topic further and discuss it with known keepers and breeders.
If you feel that we have made any errors, please feel free to contact any member of the team and we will endeavour to research the subject at hand further.
Photograph by Angi Nelson